Label: Recycling Records - none • Format: 8x, File FLAC, Reissue • Genre: Electronic, Jazz • Style: Ambient, Experimental
I decided Русская осень - Анатолий Загот - Российские Барды I was going to make myself a knife from a file.
There are many guides on the Internet that tell you how to do this, but this one will be mine. The first thing you should do is decide what you are going to do with your knife, and exactly how it is going to look. I only did the first bit, and sorely regretted it later.
Since you are going to make the knife from a file, I would suggest going out and buying one. I based on what I have read on the web and knife making forums, Nicholson files are W1 W-1? Beware the dollar store file! Some of them are not high carbon steel, but low carbon steel Concrete Springs - Dalhas Umaï - Concrete LP has been case hardened.
I liked this design I liked the best. You can see the outline of the tang of the file on the right. Trace the file out on a piece of paper. Hold the file in your hand and figure out how big of a handle you want. Decide if you want a depression for your index finger or thumb.
Think about the work the blade will be doing, and how long you have to finish the blade, and what your skill level is with the medium. I have a lot of experience filing things, but none with forging or heat treating, so I went with a thick, durable blade, with a slightly finer edge for slicing, scalpel-style.
It should be good for cutting up fruit and opening boxes, which is what I normally use my current knife for. I also wanted to try to use some mosaic pins, and this got me in trouble because I did not take them into account in my design. Once you settle on a design, you will need to anneal the file before you can start to remove the material. Remember, you never want to rub your files on each other because they will get dull.
This is because the metal is incredibly hard. How hot it gets and how long you it cool play into how soft it gets. I heated mine up to a dull red ubik - Cut With The Blade (File) and let it cool in air, and it was soft enough for me to work with.
You can also just leave it in your forge and let it forge-cool, but you will have to wait until long after all your charcoal goes out before you The Fog - Burning Inside - Apparition touch it.
Here I have used the grinder to do some stock removal. It is best to keep the steel cool during this process by dipping it in water. As you can ubik - Cut With The Blade (File), the blade got very hot during this grinding process, causing some tempering colors to begin to appear on the blade.
It got so hot that some parts hardened when I dipped it in water to cool it off! I used a butane torch to ubik - Cut With The Blade (File) it up and anneal it again once I started to file. You can tell the bevel is very uneven right now, because there are several facets that have light reflecting off of them. This can be a good way to file straight; just Master Of The Universe - Hawkwind - The Masters: 10 Classic Tracks until the whole blade is reflecting light at the same time, or not.
While filing, ubik - Cut With The Blade (File) should be able to see the color of light and the finish of that particular facet spread across the blade. Here is another shot of the filing process. It is best to keep your knife locked down so you can file the bevels flat. Here I have C-clamped the knife to a piece of wood, and put the wood in the vice, making it very easy to file the knife without it moving. You can also see a sharpie line I drew on the annealed blank- this is so I do not remove material past the line, in order to create the correct shape of bevel.
The sharpie that is on the blade is to check for high spots. I color the whole thing in, and then take a piece of sandpaper stapled to a piece of flat wood, and push it over the blade. High spots relative to their surroundings end up polished, and low spots end up still covered in ink. You can see this effect in the scratches on the blade, and the edge where the bevel begins, which is relatively higher than the neighboring portions of the blade. I wanted a thick blade, because I want this knife to be tough.
I was going to have only one bevel on one side, and two on the other so that it would be easy to sharpen for me, as a righty. This was a mistake, as it turns out, because the single-bevel side always gets scratched by the sharpening stone. Oh well, you live and you learn. Setup for drilling holes in the knife mentioned in the over-melted post.
This is also a great time to drill holes for your bolster and handle pins! Hopefully I did them straight-ish. The next step is to normalize the steel. You do this by heating the blade to non-magnetic and then letting it air cool. If we had been beating on it with a hammer, this would help reduce the stress in the blade.
It does not take too long, and it seems like a good precaution. Some people normalize up to three times, but I thought two cycles would be just fine given that I did not pound on the blade.
The next step is to harden, and then temper the blade. This ubik - Cut With The Blade (File) is collectively called heat treating. There is a lot of conflicting information about how to do it properly. The most consistent message I found was to quench in brine, water, or oil, and then stick it in the oven at somewhere between F for about an hour, depending on how hard you want your blade to be in the end.
This leaves a lot to be desired. I found a lot of believable information about the process herebut their process is very specific and it was hard for me to estimate what temperature my blade was.
The process I used was to heat to non-magnetic, ubik - Cut With The Blade (File) in brine recipe: add salt to water until it will not dissolve anymore using a slicing motion and then polish a small portion of the now forge-scaled and tempered blade. This was done to make the temper colors visible when I stuck it in the oven at F.
Mine might have been a little dark, but better over-baked than over-melted! It is starting to look like the knife I designed! After a little sanding, The blade was looking much better. It is super effective against fruits, vegetables, and paper, and it even looked a little bit like the knife I planned on making.
After some more polishing, It will receive an nice handle and a bolster of undetermined material, and a couple mosaic pins.
Excellent tutorial man! Take whatever I say with a grain of salt- it is mostly a compilation of stuff I found online. It turned out ok though, so hopefully yours does too.
Thanks for some added insight. Hi, nice tutorial, I just made my first blade today also from a Tokio96 - Steve Hackett - Blues With A Feeling file. The material my file was made from was so hard that none of my drill bits even made a scratch on the handle part so I just did a pararcord wrap.
My blade has a very good edge on it, nearly razor sharp, I did a Tanto style full tang fixed blade. Overall I am very pleased with the way mine turned out for a first blade, I have a couple of nice sheaths on order for it that I think will work nicely.
Your grinder must be very different- in all my experiences with a grinder, the metal has gotten very very hot. Glad to hear it worked out well! For folks who are interested in this kind of stuff, I would definitely ubik - Cut With The Blade (File) out the phase diagram and microstructure for various steels to understand what you are doing to them. You are commenting using your WordPress.
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Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. January 22, July 22, Little Steve - Arliss Nancy - Simple Machines nearly-done blade.
The knife after some rough grinding. Ink test. Heating up to critical. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like this: Like Loading Leave a Reply Cancel reply Enter your comment here Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:. Email required Address never made public.
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